Saturday, March 14, 2020

A TRIP TO AJANTA - MY DAIRY IN 1980 - THE ONLY TRIP BY APPA-AMMA-WE FOUR



Mr. G. Srirama Rao and family
A TRIP TO AJANTA
5TH January, 1980
AJANTA

These caves are about 70 km from Aurangabad.  We reached there in 3 hrs time in a coach engaged specially for us and another French family with Rs. 30 per head.
View from the View Point:
This was the point from where the caves were discovered first.  A britisher, in 1819, came hunting a tiger and spotted the 10th cave and reported ti the then Nawab Nizam shahi.  This Nawab took action and dug them out.
All the caves are in a valley, surrounded by big mountains.  They are in U-shape, starting with the first cave to the last.  The water surrounds the caves, under the mountains.  Sun is not shone there due to the low depth of the caves.
History:
9-11; 13, 15, 16 are the caves first discovered.  The other caves were discovered later.  In these caves aintings as well as excavated sculpture are found.  All the paintings and sculpture are of Buddhist culture.  The excavations were of both Mahayana and Hinayana cults.  In Mahayana sculptures Buddha, the idol, was installed.  And in Hinayana they did not believe in idol worship.
All the caves were divided as Viharas and Chityas.  A Vihara is a cave in which the room is a rectangle or a square structure with a flat roof.  A Chitya is a cave in which the room is of dome shape, with stone excavations curved like the bamboo (doolam).  The Buddha idol is installed in the middle of a Stupa with a pedestrel, Basement and Shilpa in the form of unbrellas called as Chatra.  In Hinayana cult same stupa without an idol in it.
Only Viharas have paintings in them.  And Chityas contain all excavations.  The paintings are of mainly red, blue and green colours.  Blue was the only colour prepared from CaSO4 and the others from naturally occurring minerals.  Their origin is not yet known.  They are so ‘fast’ that they exist after so many years too.  The caves are expected ti be if between 2nd – 10th centuries.
The excavation was always carried out from the top of the mountain to the bottom.  All idols were also excavated from top to bottom.  This can be easily conferred by observing some of the incomplete idols on the walls of the cave, in and out also.  The mountainitself was cut out from top to bottom.  The outer pillars of the caves were excavated first to let enter the Sun light.  This shows that the sculptor must have had the idea of the future cave with full of idols in their fixed positions in his mind like a map on the globe.  All the sculptures show a similar type of symmetry, showing the accuracy with which the sculptor had produced his genius.
By seeing the accuracy we can say that these caves might have been carved after Ellora caves.  Because, in some of the Ellora caves, we observe unsymmetry.  On the mountain rock two layers of plaster was pasted.  On the second layer of plaster the paintings are done.  This can be easily detected because most of the paintings have been spoilt.  Very few paintings can be noted fully with full size images.  The plaster is in brown colour.  Still the nature of plaster and the colours is not known. 
The route to the caves reminds of the trip to Tirupati, the bus going in curves round the mountains.  But instead, here, the bus goes you down the hill leading to valley.

ALL THE CAVES:
CAVE I:
It is a Vihara.  It is very dark.  The paintings and excavations were shown with the help of a fled-light.
The first painting was King Mana Janak seated on the thrown.  He ruled foor 7 years and became an aesthetic.  In the same sequence his wife, who became a dancer to divert his intension, was painted.  The Kind was seated near the preiest with a serene expression on his face.  When he left the palace, near the gate hiswife is shown with a dejected face.
The next painting showed Lord Buddha taking bath in his palace.  He had curly haits.  His attendants holding pitchers were shown pouring water on him.  Three devotees who were trying to touch the water bathed by Buddha.
The 3rd painting showed Bodisatva Padmapani, i.e., emerging Buddha.  Padma is shown in his hand.  Eye brows have been painted in one stroke. 
The excavation was Darma Chakra Parivartana Mudra of Buddha.  In this sculpture 3 moods were shown.  From front in the face the mood of meditation would be observed.  From left it would seem that the Buddha s smiling at you  from right it is evident that Buddha is sad due to the poverty of humanity.
The painting of (last) Bodisattava Vagra Pani.  He is supposted to save humanity from evil passions.  Vagra is shown in one of his hands.
On the ceiling many types of vegetation was shown.  Painting of a bull, who looks at you from any corner.  The painting was white and black.
The pillars were rounded on the top.  On each pillars is a head of a deer with four bodies.  But from corners we can observe 4 deers.
CAVE II
This is also a Vihara.  The first painting showed birth of Buddha.  In Tushita Heaven – a savour was needed to the humanity.  Buddha seated with his followers.  All selected Kind Suddhodana as hs future father.  King Suddhodana has a dream about having a son.  Queen Mahamaya gave birth to a son with 16 marks on his body.  He was born in Lumbini garden situated between India and Nepal.
The 2nd painting showed a lady bending on the legs of the King.  She was naked.  It looked as if she was asking for forgiveness.  There is a story as follows:  a King went into a forest with a dancer and was enjoying her company.  But without his knowledge, the dancer went and heard the preaching’s of Lord Buddha.  When she went back the King was angry.  Due to his fury the dancer bends on his feet and asks for mercy.
The excavations of devatas Hariti and Jambala.  She was supposed to be the goddess of fertility.  She had 500 children.  But she used to snatch away others children.  So Buddha wanted to teach her a lesson.  He took away one of her sons.  She was angry and came to Buddha with fury.  But explained her how the others would have felt with their children taken away.  She understood and stopped snatching away children.
Multiple paintings of Buddha on a side wall.  King Pashanjit questioned him about his super humanity.  To tell him about his superiority Buddha showed himself in different ways to the King.  All the paintings show different moods of Buddha.
An excavation of Buddha with Dharma Chakra Parivartana Mudra.
The next excavations was of Gods of Wealth-Shankalidi and Padmalidi.  They were shown with big tummys, which was the sign of wealth.  On the roof the painting of swams shows a beautiful symmetry.
CAVE IX
It is a Chaitya.  It was a place of worship for HInayana’s.  Smaller room.
CAVE X
Bigger room.  A Chaitya.  The Stupa was without an idol.
CAVE XVI
A painting of Buddha’s brother Nanda (cousin).  Buddha asked Nanda to leave Luxurious life but was refused.  Then he shaved away Nanda’s head and sent his crown to his wife.  Another painting shows the crown was brought to the princess and she on the verge of dying with all the sorrow on her face.
A sculpture of Buddha excavated in preaching posture.
A painting of preaching Buddha with all his attendants surrounding  him.
In between two pillars a love-making couple was excavated.  On the pillas on all the sides four ganas or devotees were shown carrying, as if, the caves on their bodies.
CAVE XIX
It is a Chaitya.  Mahayana stupa with Buddha installed in it.  The pillars had been sculptured with flying couple on them.
CAVE XXIV
Incomplete cave.  Rocks were left unfinished.  The ddor was sculptured with love-making couple.  It looks, as if, they wanted to excavate many postures of devotees kneeling before Lord Buddha.
CAVE XXVI
Buddha sleeping (excavation).  He left the workd.  Underneath are excavated the sculptures of mounging people.  Deities on the top rejoicing for Buddha’s entry into their world.  Buddha was meditating.  Mara’s 7 daughters were excavated around him, who were trying to divert away his attention.
In the middle was Buddha in his preaching posture.  Many apsarasas were excavated around the basement.  The smallest excavation of Buddha was on the turban of the devata.  Devata’s were also excavated alternating with apsarasas.
In between many caves were left due to research and damage work.  Hence, were closed.  But on some walls of the outer caves many half and unfinished excavations were present.
After having lunch in the garden we all returned back to Aurangabad.  Thus ending the trip happily.  But on all it was a wonderful trip.

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